Method

Tuscans are known as mangiafagioli (bean-eaters). White beans are a way of life and a traditional Tuscan meal often starts with a thick bean soup that has been cooked in a terracotta pot and flavoured with herbs and heavily anointed with olive oil. These days, it's a meal in itself, ladled over a slice of pane Sciocco, an unsalted bread with a delicious crust. Soak the beans a day ahead. If your travels take you to Nelson the Saturday market has a popular sausage stall and after munching a Bratwurst ask them about their super speck for this recipe.

Drain beans and rinse, then place in a large saucepan with onions, celery, garlic, 80ml (1/3 cup) oil, bay leaves, 2 sprigs of sage, speck and 2.5 litres water.

Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cook, simmering gently, for 1 ½ hours. Season with sea salt and cook for a further hour, stirring occasionally, checking water level and adding a little more water if the bean mixture is a little too dry, until beans are very tender. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool at room temperature.

When cool, remove speck and thinly slice, then return to the pan. Combine 80ml (1/3 cup) oil with chilli flakes in a small bowl and set aside. Pick sage leaves from the remaining 2 sprigs. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons of oil in a small frying pan over medium heat. Add sage leaves and fry for 30 seconds or until crisp, then drain on a paper towel.

Gently reheat beans over low heat, then divide among shallow bowls. Top with fried sage, drizzle with chilli oil and serve with crusty bread.